Games Workshop Paint Kit

Start the Vampire
This article novice Warhammer gamers through the basics of collecting, building and painting a Vampire Counts army. The rise of an army of dead could not be easier
Starting a new army for Warhammer may seem a little intimidating, even for the experienced players and newcomers can be quite surprising. But do not worry, this guide is full of tips to guide you in the first step towards construction of a Vampire Counts army to be prepared to take all participants. We will see how to assemble your models and then give them a simple but visually pleasing paint job using a small number of different paints.
This guide assumes that you have the modeling team ss plastic cutters, cutter, glue paint and plastic.
During construction of the Warhammer army, the best place to start is the book for the army army in particular. You will find you constantly refer to this book, which not only provide the rules and army lists for your Vampire Counts army, but the hobby section contains a lot of tips on painting, assembling, and selecting your army. In fact, if you have the book I suggest you take a look at the pages of Army hobby book right now, go …
A right, finished reading the book of the army? OK Let's continue …
For the army, we will start with your first unit assembled and painted, for this tutorial, we will focus on one of the basic units of a Vampire Counts army, skeletons.
href = "http://www.totalwargamer.co.uk/warhammer-fantasy-battle/vampire-counts.html"> Games Workshop skeleton models come in the form of a kit with all plastic models and plastic, the first thing to do is cut the frames that are available on request. To do this, use your plastic cup and cut to try not to cut too close parts of the model this can damage the model, go to a (slightly less than 1 mm) attached to the portal model and use your knife to cut this option. Remember When Using a knife, always cutting yourself.
Once you have the free parts of the skeleton of their frames, it is necessary to clean all the mold lines or stay Born in part (as mentioned above). Cut heels framework is only a matter of removing (a new cut away from you), you can use your knife to scrape off mold lines, taking the blade through a line of pan and slide the blade along it.
Their models are ready for assembly, is where reaches the plastic adhesive, an infantry soldier as a mere skeleton is fairly easy to assemble and I do not go into how to proceed in any length, I suggest search in the army book inspired by the poses.
Once your models have been built, are ready for painting, the technique below.
Step 1: First, you need white skeleton model layer, which creates a solid surface on which to implement the remainder of the paint job.
Step 2: Once that is done under brown paint wash all exposed areas of bone or wood. Be careful to get the mixture of brown paint all the cracks this layer is the basis for all subsequent steps.
Step 3: "Wet" dry brushing all areas of light brown stone with a brush old toothbrush. Dry brushing is a technique where you load the brush with a small amount of paint (so it is almost dry) and brush over the raised surface of a model leaving unpainted corner. A "wet" dry brush requires more paint to use and therefore more color on the model.
Step 4: With a normal brush, paint the dark brown ax. Paint the area need to look at black metal.
Step 5: Now let's add another layer dry brush, this layer must be much more "dry" than its predecessor, but still not a true dry brushing. Apply a light brown mixture 1:01 and cream with this technique in mind. Now, the dry brush with the ax handle light brown. Remember to leave some showing the darker brown around hand and the head of the ax.
Step 6: Areas of silver metallic paint, adjustment can also paint metallic gold fields.
Step 7: The first real dry brush should now be applied to bony areas, dry brush This should be a 3:1 mixture of cream to light brown. You should brush with a downward movement only at the beginning, to take the ribs and knee joints. Then paint on the side of the leg bones and big arms for a better coverage in these areas. The ax dry brush lightly with a 9:01 mixture of brown and white.
Step 8: Apply a wash of black over the areas laundry money and coffee on the edge of gold. A cleaning station is a painting technique that is used to dilute the paint (usually darker) breaks, the paint should be diluted with at least 3 parts water to 1 part of paint.
Step 9: Now, one final cream dry brush, taking care to brush the bottom only. Dry Brush a 1:1 mixture of brown and white on the handle of an ax. Dry Brush money in areas of metal (Be sure to wash the dried first). Reapply paint to the gold fields of gold, leaving the wash near the rivets.
Step 10: Carefully apply a wash of brown paint 1:1 water around the knee on the TOE ball joints and under the shoulder blades, between the bones of the legs, and the orbits. Apply a little more money to the top of ax and helmet shell. Mix a silver medal with gold edges and the top of the molding of gold. To get the gold in the helmet, you can board the ECU a similar effect on gold.
And that's all …. It was fairly easy, right? All you need do now is paint the rest of the models we have in the first box and you have completed your first Vampire unit.
Where you going? Well, now that the first unit is almost ready for the table, what to do now? Well to begin there are a multitude other types of units which may be partly a Vampire Counts army book considers a host of care in selecting these and when you so you'll need Assembly and painting. Finally, of course, have to delete an opponent armed with his newly built Vampire …
About the Author
Paul Adkins
Total Wargamer
www.totalwargamer.co.uk
Specialists in Warhammer, including Vampire Counts.
Painting: Part 1/3 Space Wolves Terminator
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